French Riviera: Monaco and Nice
Traditionally not part of Provence, French Riviera is the meeting of mountains and sea, where the Maritime Alps plunges into the Mediterranean. This region enjoys a warm subtropical micro-climate shielded in the north by the Alps. Formerly isolated backwaters, since the coming of railroads Nice and nearby coastal towns have become glamorous resorts for sun-seekers who come for the beaches and the mild winters. The rich and famous over the course of a century vacationed here, some settled permanently. The independent Principality of Monacowent a step further in catering to the rich by establishing tax havens and the modern world's first gambling resort - Monte Carlo.
We took a train from Nice to see Monaco, which has been a sovereign monarchy for over seven centuries. Its spectacular site on top of sheer cliffs jutting into the Mediterranean (known as "the Rock of Monaco") made it an impregnable fortress, protecting its independence through the ages. Nowadays it is one of the wealthiest countries in the world (and it shows). The city is overbuilt with lots of high rise condo buildings but tastefully ornamented and landscaped. We strolled around the narrow lanes of Monaco-ville to a cliff-side park, where soaring seagulls zoomed by us repeatedly, sometimes within a few feet of our head. Colorful subtropical flowers are everywhere. Majestic views of the mountains and zig-zagging coastlines extend to the distant horizon, and two beautiful yacht harbors on either side of "the Rock" add to the sumptuous visual feast.
Braving the chaotic traffic of Nice, we headed out of town to Antibes to have dinner. This ancient port with a walled old-town has a picturesque yet easygoing vibe, a perfect seaside resort.
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