Rebellious Popes in the Land of Lavender

City of Popes: Ancient Avignon

 

 Avignon has the distinction of being the only city other than Rome that have been the capital of Catholic Popes. It has a Spanish vibe with heavy Catholic Christian architecture and massive fortifications. Avignon is the natural crossroads between Provence and the rest of France; the Popes sought France's protection by relocating here for 73 years during the 13th century. From the top of the fort or the medieval Palace of the Popes there are grand vistas of the mighty Rhone River, the broken Pont d'Avignon bridge, walled fortress of Villeneuve-les-Avignon across the river, and verdant countryside all around.

 Gordes is a nearby hill-top village built exclusively of stacked cream-colored limestone, and has received the distinction of being "one of the most beautiful villages in France". The view of the village crowning a dramatic hilltop site, overlooking the vineyards down below is awe-inspiring. After a short cliff-top drive the gracefully proportioned 11th century Senanque Abbey nestled in neat rows of lavender is just as spectacular.

 We headed to Aix-en-Provence for dinner. Once parking the car we strolled around the city center where stately buildings and leafy old plane trees line the traffic-free boulevard. The hangout of impressionist painter Paul Cezanne back in the day, this town combines the easygoing Provencal lifestyle with chic shopping and youthful student life.