Coined "Damascus of the west" by medieval Arab travelers, Granada has been eulogized by countless poets and writers in the last 500 years as the lost paradise of Europe. Granada's natural beauty at the foot of snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains, its highly fertile plain irrigated by snow melt rivers, and the magnificent Alhambra castle crowing the Sabika hill, all added to the mystique of the city. Granada reminds me of Lhasa, Tibet, the Alhambra reminds me of the Potala Palace. The Alhambra Palace is today one of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe, it represents the peak of artistic achievement of not only Islamic Spain, but also of medieval Europe.
Granada was the capital of the Nasrid kingdom of Granada, the last Muslim dynasty in Spain that developed a wealthy, highly envied civilization based on advanced agriculture and irrigation, production of luxury goods such as silk, and sea trading in gold and minerals with Africa and the near east. Granada became the richest city in Spain and the prize of Christian conquerors - the Catholic kings Ferdinand and Isabella. Granada was a society of dominated by Muslims, Jews, and Gypsies, their historic neighborhoods occupy the three hills surrounding the Sabika/Alhambra hill. 500 plus years after the Christian conquest, nowadays Muslims and gypsies are gradually making a come-back to this city. Thanks to the preservation efforts of people like American author Washington Irving, the Alhambra still evokes resplendent paradise it was designed to be by its Muslim kings. Granada's beauty has managed to outlast its past misfortunes.
The Alhambra Palace comprises of the Nasrid Palaces built by the 13-14th century Muslim rulers, and Carlos V Palace built by conquering Christian kings in the 16th century. The Nasrid Palaces is an amazing collection of superb indoor and outdoor spaces that epitomizes the art of sensuality, perfect proportions, and intricate use of flowing water. It is connected to the Generalife Gardens (the name means Koranic paradise), a most romantic series of formal gardens with dancing fountains, elegant courtyards, and fabulous vistas. Some modern touches have been added to the gardens in the form of an elegant marble-clad amphitheater. The Generalife Gardens evokes the feeling of heavenly paradise by a combination of elegant garden design, subtropical flowers and trees, and the most special views of beautiful Granada: the Alhambra castle, the hillside church towers of Albaicin, and snowcapped Sierra Nevada Mountains.
The Christian conquerors of Granada demolished mosques but did not significantly disturb the Alhambra palace. They added the main church of Alhambra whose Moorish inspired tower is a gracious addition to the skyline, and Carlos V Palace, the best example of Renaissance architecture in Spain. Carlos V Palace was modeled after the Piti Palace in Florence, Italy. Although massively out of proportion with the Nasrid Palaces, it anchors the Alhambra with its weight and its square shape harmonizes with the Moorish crenelated square towers surrounding the Alhambra fortress.
Lunch break in downtown Granada's Plaza del Humilladero was a beautiful experience as well; the town center has gracious proportions and the buildings are harmonious with the vibe of elegant aristocracy. This part of town reminds me of Aix-en-Provence in France.
The last sight of the day was the Albaicin - the old Moorish quarter, on a hill across the river Daro from the Alhambra. We hiked up narrow cobbled alleys lined with white-washed yet generously proportioned houses, past pretty squares with outdoor cafes. Our destination was the San Nicholas terrace where a magnificent view of the Alhambra fortress in front of the snow of Sierra Nevada came upon us. A few colorful gypsy performers started singing and banging the instruments. One realizes how fortunate one must be to live in this town; and what drove Ferdinand and Isabella to want to be buried here.
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